KEYS...and Rocky Mountain National Park

To start off I must back track a bit.  As those of you that have been keeping up with this blog may remember over the 4th of July in Oregon we locked our keys in our car, luckily there was a phone nearby and AAA came to the rescue.  Fast forward to Yellowstone at about 8pm when I decide to go to bed but first needed to change clothes and yep it happened again, keys in car.  This time though there was no cell phone service and the camp host was no where to be found.  At this point Derek thought it might be successful to disassemble an umbrella (for a metal piece to stick down into the door).  Let's be honest people this was a fail.  Ashlin and I then walked around the campground looking for a coat hanger and when we found one I thought I might could jimmy it down into the car and push the unlock button.  Again, being honest, fail.  Now it is nearing 9:30pm and Derek notices the camp host is back.  Camp host calls ranger, ranger comes and shabam!  If that was the end of the "key" story I would not much have one but it goes on.  As we were driving home yesterday (a 3 day event as we have 1500 miles to cover) we realize that our friends Rachel and Brian have our house key and they are in PA.  Knowing Rachel, I thought, she just left it at their house and we will get it when we get home, fail, they had brought it to PA, ya know just in case they needed it (just kidding guys we love you).  Thats ok we say a couple of weeks back we had mailed our dear friend Andy a key so he could stay at our place.  Upon texting Andy we discover that said key never made it to his house, go figure the one piece of mail that really matters gets lost.  Ok, next option is my sister Kristen who has a key and lives in Atlanta, oh wait but she is in Boston right now.  We call her and she says she will go to a UPS store to next day air the key.  We start to get a little relieved and then get the call that UPS has taken out their last shipment and guess what folks today is Sunday.  So as we make our journey back to our house late tomorrow night (Monday) we will be calling locksmiths to help us get into our house, oh what an exciting adventure.  This folks is what memories are made out of!

OK, that was a side blog, now onto our last park of this trip Rocky Mountain National Park.  Like most things on this trip we did not plan on coming here but were oh so excited when we made the last minute decision.  We arrived via the west side around 7pm so we set up camp and then went to the ranger program about the Colorado River.  Turns out the start of the Colorado is at Rcky Mtn Ntl Park.  This fact made me sort of tingly and warm as if you can remember we started our trip off with a three day canoe trip down the Colorado in Utah and here we are on the last week of our trip at the beginning of it.  Cute I know.  During the ranger program we heard some coyotes howling which Ashlin thought was really neat.  The next morning we packed up quick as we were trying to get to the other side of the park to a campground with only 24 sites that were first come first serve only.  As most of you know between me and Derek I am the more anxious one.  Well, when it comes to getting a campsite Derek is on high alert and is not at rest until one is secured.  So, when we get to the campground and see a women leaving we hop on that site and now we can all relax.  After quickly setting up camp we get ready for our 8.5 mile hike to Chasm Lake.  At the end of the hike we were at an elevation of approximately 12,000 feet.   This is breathtaking, literally, most of you know the higher elevation you are at the harder it is to breath, and to give you a gauge Atlanta is at an elevation of about 1000 ft., Boston at 20.  After about 2 miles of hiking through forest the trail opened up to alpine meadows and huge views!  Ashlin was carried mostly until we got to snow and climbing, her two favorite things to hike in.  After spending some time taking in the beauty we started our way down.  We got back to camp, had a fire and some freeze dried food and hit the sack for our official last night of camping on this trip :(. 

Yesterday we made 586 miles and finally stopped in Topeka, Kansas.  Today our goal is roughly the same and it looks like we will stop about 100 miles north of Nashville and then the next day we are home.  We will continue to blog and post pictures in the coming weeks as there is so much we have not yet talked about.  Oh yeah we left our computer in Montana with Matt and Shel so that is why there have been no pictures the last two blogs.  Peace

Katie

Jackson Hole and PETA

So we made it about 45 minutes on the road yesterday.  We also decided to go out to eat for only the second time.  Then the third.  Right now I'm sitting in the business center of the Rustic Inn in Jackson, Wy about to go wake Kate and Ash up so we can get nasty with this huge breakfast buffet they have here.  When one gives up roughing it for a bit it is best to just willingly succomb to gluttony. 

So we left Bozeman/Livingston with the Winks and Sebrens and headed into the Beartooth wilderness.  This place quite special and also amazingly desolate.  It borders Yellowstone on the park's east side so almost no one bothers to come here. Except bears.  This is where two people were munched by Grizzlies last year (one 1 week before we came and one 1 week after we left) and in the same roaming grounds where the guy was killed in Yellowstone a couple weeks ago.  All nine of us were extremely cautious making plenty of noise while hiking, changing clothes before bed and carrying five cans of bear spray.  Anyway there were no incidents and we got to enjoy the beauty with the comfort of safty in numbers.  Starting a hike at 9,600 affords one views that usually must be attained by lots of work, sweat and hiking treats.  All of us were able to do a hike that led offtrail to four alpine lakes where we saw not a single other person.  The kids played, walked and laughed in a way that they could not on our way to Sacajwea Peak a few days before-while still making it over 10,000 feet.  At the top of this mountain range there is a plateau that almost makes one forget about the elevation.  There are these huge relitively flat areas that look like rolling fields usually not found above 3 or 4 thousand feet.  Because of the super late thaw the wildflowers were just beginning to bud and the short colorful life of this place just emerging before the snow and ice reclaims it 2 months from now.  Our campsite was situated between a river and a creek so the kids had planty to do and the parents plenty to keep an eye on.  Rivers are actually our primary concern when it comes to safty.  Sooooo many more people are hurt or killed in water each year than by wildlife that it's crazy people even worry about the critters.  I'm sure some of you saw the news about the 3 hikers that fell over Vernal falls in Yosemite (where we hiked the week before) and died while just trying to pose for a picture. They fell 312 feet over the falls from a spot we stood six days prior. So we are super careful about water.  This disclaimer before adding that our third day in ther Beartooth's found us on a hike that led to this "natural waterpark" in a river where the kids played for hours.  There were a couple of rock waterslides that swooped the kids into shallow pools and gave us all an opportunity to splash around (and bath) in the frigid water.  Sadly, back at the trailhead we parted ways with everyone as they headed back home and we headed into Yellowstone.

We keep trying to like Yellowstone but it just isn't happening.  I mean, we like it, but it is really pretty low on our list of favorite parks.  Three visits in three years has left us feeling like we should like it more but we are usually ready to get to the Tetons.  We did get to see lots of buffalo and elk while also seeing some of the geothermal features but we scooted through to the Tetons fairly quickly.

I can't say enough about the Tetons.  LOVE this place.  We stayed at two new campgrounds, both of which were phenominal.  Again, late snowmelt still had higher elevation hikes closed down so we hiked 9 miles into paintbrush canyon and turned around before we reached the snow this time.  I feel happy just talking about this park.  The sunrise here casts this breathtaking orange light on the mountains that seriously brings a little tear to the eye.  The wilflowers are in full "spring" bloom and water is gushing from everywhere as the mountains rid themselves of the snowpack. We also got to see a ranger program on the Teton wolves which Ash was thrilled about (she's part horse part wolf).  After Kate and Ash made me stop taking pictures we packed off with the intention of making it to Rocky Mountain NP 8 hours away.  Like I said, we made it 45 minutes.

We decided to go through Jackson to find a horse ride for Ashlin when I remembered that my friend Haley now lives in Jackson so we got in touch with her to inquire about rides.  Turns out she was the right person to ask and she ended up meeting us for a pony ride and lunch.  Then we found out there is a rodeo in town.  Ash was about to explode while we decided if we were going to stay for the night.  Obviously we did.  The Demmings (sp? sorry Haley) had plans to go to a bluegrass show so they didn't make it to the rodeo but we cowboyed up and took off for the bull riding.  Ashlin was jittering with excitment and could barley contain herself the whole time.  There is a slight feeling of guilt about some of the events in a rodeo but we gave in and had a blast. 

Well Ash and Kate just came in on their way to belly up to the bar so I'm out.  Hope all is well and we'll be in touch soon.

Peace. D-

Bozeman/Livingston and More Pics

So we made it through the desert of NE CA and SE OR to Montana after making 1000 miles in 2 days.   We got to the Sebren's and just chilled while the kids played.  They were all so glad to see one another that the three picked up just like there was not a year gap in between visits.  We all got up the next morning and went to a spot near Bozeman in the Bridger range for the next two nights.  It was a fantastic spot we would have never found as it was completely undeveloped just down the rough road from the developed forrestry service campground.  Had it all to ourselves and the kids had a great time collecting water, playing soccer and poking around in the fire.  On day two we took the kids on the "adult hike" because we couldn't figure out the sitter situation.  They made it like rockstars to the top of Sacajawea Peak at 10,000 feet (tallest in the Bridgers) and recieved many wows from friends and onlookers alike.  Shell and Molly sledded on a rainjacket down about 700 feet along a quarter-mile snow drift instead of walking one section of the return.  Anyway, we spent last night with Eric in Livingston where we smoked ribs and homemade poppers and planned where we are going today . . . the Beartooth/Absaroka wilderness area.  There will be no service there for the next few days so if you are planning on calling Ash just leave a message and we'll call back when we can!  Camp is at 9,200 and 34 degrees tonight!!!


Here are some more pictures from July 2nd thru the 5th. Trying to catch up on the pics!

Hiking around caves at Lava Beds National Monument looking at pictographs.

Relaxing at our campsite.  Lava Beds, CA

Crater Lake.  Enough said.

Hike at Crater Lake totally snow covered.

Camping at one of the very few open spots at Crater,  notice tent squished in between snow.

More beautifullness (sp?)

Making lunch.

Hiked down to the lake, clearest water I have ever seen!

4th of July, time to get crazy!

Very very windy beach. Sand in eyes...check.

<3

Some pictures thru July 1st

Amarillo KOA

                                                            

Tack shop in Amarillo

Canoeing on the Colorado River, UT

First night camping on the Colorado, sweet spot!

Picture of our campsite from above

Ash :)

One of Derek's many morning pictures

See last caption.

Hiking up to Indian ruins, Colorado River.

Derek and Ash in the distance.

Family pic!

After my river bath.

Our campsite 2nd night on the Colorado, also very sweet!

<3, canoeing in 100 degree weather.

Our first backpacking trip in Tahoe, CA



Notice who doesn't have to carry anything, we'll give her a couple years.



Rain on a backpacking trip makes for wrapping Ashlin in a backpack cover.

Being silly in the tent.

UNO!

More silliness in the tent.

Hike back the next morning, gorgeous.

As my friend Rachel would say...swoon.

Self timer and climbing the rock quickly, good job D!

Ashlin's favorite part about hiking, crossing logs.

Looks like he is coming back from washing dishes after losing Rock, Paper, Scissors!

Stuff sacks and packing up. Routine.

Ashlin got to ride a horse named Mocha.

About to hike up 850 feet to this Cinder Cone in Lassen Volanic National Park, CA.

At the top.

Lunch.

Ashlin in the distance.

Ash and her friend Heidi playing in the snow.



More to come!

Yosemite!!

I’ve really taken to getting up and out of the tent just around sunrise each morning for a little me time.  Katie and Ashlin get to sleep in a little and I get some time for self.  It is - without question - the quietest part of the day.   After making the first pot of coffee, I usually grab the camera and hike around for a bit, taking way too many pictures but doing so without harassment (Ashlin frequently rips on me for taking pictures and Katie fans the flame).  We’ve had some pretty spectacular camping spots and it has been great fun crawling around on rocks, through redwoods and down rivers snapping pictures of our surroundings (hopefully some will be posted today).   Today, however, there will be no such extraordinary photographic opportunities.

From where I sit at the picnic table of site 347 (of 450 something) I can see 31 other tents,  12 RVs, 26 cars/trucks/SUVs, two motorcycles and roughly a gazillion igloo coolers.

(Katie now) Not sure where Derek went, I am assuming for a run but when I woke up I decided to take over for a bit.  After leaving San Francisco we headed towards Yosemite and around 8pm stopped just outside because our reservation was not until the next day and if any of you know Yosemite, the first come first serve sites fill up by about 11.  The next morning we headed in to what now may be in the running for my favorite National Park.  The primitive tent sites are first come first serve and we had high hopes for the next morning of getting one but for this night we had one reserved in the valley, with the rest of CA.  This was fine though because the hike we wanted to do left from the campsite.  On the way our destination Nevada Falls we got to go past a very popular waterfall, Vernal falls, also astoundingly beautiful, as we hike up the steps to the summit we all got soaked, Ashlin loved it!  After losing the crowd there, as most turned around we continued our hike up to Nevada Falls.  While climbing up granite for quite some time we could see the falls and my favorite comment was by a woman we passed who, with an ear to ear smile proclaimed, “we are so lucky”.  Yes we are!  At the top of the falls (up 2900 feet from where we started) it seemed unreal.  Right before the water plunged over the edge there was a little wading pool.  You know the kind that is always at your local water park trying to portray just this scene, clear water, a couple of rocks, and that one tree in the middle.  Needless to say we ate our lunch here and Ashlin played in the water.  According to the California hiking book we had the author said that the hike down, which follows the John Muir Trail is not as beautiful but you are at least not repeating ground.  Well Tom Steinstra you were wrong.  The hike down gave amazing views of Yosemite and the waterfall.  After an 8 mile round trip we were all happy to get down and eat some food.  Usually the last mile of a really long hike we all start to get really excited about dinner J.  Ashlin made a friend at the campground, named Ashlin, and Derek and I piddled about.  The next day we had to get up early and drive 30 minutes to the top of Yosemite to get one of the coveted first come first serve campsites that have no running water and vault toilets, coveted huh?  We get there around 9 and drive down a 3 mile dirt road with 3 other people in front of us.  With our anxieties running high about getting a site we break off in two directions and when we meet back up nothing.  Round two we decide to start asking people if they are leaving and if so can we claim up on their spot.  So, Derek finds some folks peacefully eating breakfast and bam we got it.  Relief.  The spot we get is perfect, next to a stream that you have to use a fallen log to cross to the other side, Ashlin is excited.  By the time we have settled doing the 9 mile hike seems a little too much of a time crunch so we opt for the 2 mile in and out to Luken Lake.  The trail is mostly snow covered which bodes well for Ashlin as this and rock climbing are her two favorite ways to hike.  The next morning we rise with a big pancake breakfast and eager to hike up to North Dome.  I will let Derek finish the rest because Ashlin just woke up and I need to get my morning hugs and kisses.  <3

Funny she mentioned pancakes because I was just making my way back through the Igloo/RV labyrinth from checking out when the pancake breakfast here at Tahoe Valley RV resort gets cranked up.  AS I was about to say before sausage and pancake recon started, this campground is not much to look at but it sure has everything.  We are in Tahoe again, this time soaking up the spoils of KOA type camping rather that backpacking but after Yosemite, we deserve a shower . . . and dinner and ice cream and video games and movies and a swimming pool.  So anyway, North Dome.

I’ve always been a sucker for Half Dome.  Had a poster of an Ansel Adams print of Moon and Half Dome on my wall since I was 13.  Aside from needing permits months in advance, the 14 mile hike/climb to the summit of Half Dome leaves one without a view of Half Dome.  Justifying not reserving permits by using this rational (It’s true we didn’t even know we would be here) we decide to hike North Dome trail which summits  and returns in 9 miles – and leaves one with outstanding views of Half Dome and the rest of Yosemite Valley.  For the last mile and a half we were trouncing along the granite peaks with steep (and long) drops to the valley floor on both sides.  You could see the lines of cars below and in every direction for miles.  Afternoon clouds were coming in resting on distant peaks and casting shadows on nearer ones.  Like Half Dome.  And unlike the amazingly wonderful hike to Nevada falls, we had this summit all to ourselves.  There was not even another person around for the whole hour we sat and gawked to take a family picture.  Unbelievable.  And Ashlin hiked at least half of the nine miles herself because there was plenty of snow and even more rocks to climb around on.  (Katie for the finisher) As we drove back to our campsite at 7pm, there again excited about dinner-veggie sloppyjoes, a man almost jumped in front of our car flagging us down telling us to stop, I know grandparents, you are thinking this isn't very responsible, but he looked like he needed serious help.  Turns out he did, he was hiking with a man and his sixteen year old son and it had been hours since they had seen the kid.  We flew into high panic and drove down to the campsite where they were all staying to check for the kid and get a ranger, there was a note however instructing that someone had gone to get a ranger.  This though was not enough closure for us so Derek decided to go back out the 20 minutes to where the man flagged us down to learn they had found him, pheewww.  This definitely put a different twist to the end of the day but we were all relieved and ready for bed!  This also gave us a perfect oppurtunity to teach Ashlin what to do if this were ever to happen to her.  When we woke up the next morning we were all a little exhausted from hiking 19 miles in three days and decided we were going to go to a "cushy" campground complete with a pool, gameroom, playground, bball courts and showers, ya know the kind of camping that at least I grew up on.  We went to dinner for our first time on this trip instead of cooking and I don't know how I did it but I out ate Derek, compliments to the salad bar!  This morning we got up and went to the pancake social, D and I played some Area 51, Ash pinball.  I am currently waiting on my two pokey little puppies to finish up their showers and we will be off arriving in Bozeman in a couple of days. 

See some of you soon and miss all of you!! 

Still in California!!!!

So, we went south.  Though we were poised to go north, even as we posted the last update, we decided to head off for the California coast rather than the Oregon coast.  I did say we never quite had Washington figured out . . .

California is like a magnet.  It took Kate and I discussing the matter for about eight seconds before we turned south and headed for the redwoods rather than north further into Oregon.   For camping that night we ignored a sign in Redwoods NP that suggested a campground at the end of an unpaved 7 mile drive was “full”.  Thankfully there were two remaining sites in a campground of 27, about seven of which were directly on the beach overlooking a flat, rock-free stretch of the pacific (a rarity in northern California).  We decided to stay two nights and started stalking the people with sites right on the beach so we could claim up on one of their spots for the next night.  We identified the couple occupying “the spot” and I asked them if they were leaving the next day.  “Seven or eight in the morning and we’re out of here” they assured me.  At 5:30am I got out of the tent and took a stroll on the beach that found me walking by their site.  Turns out they weren’t up yet.  I took some pictures on the beach of the sunrise and checked back every twenty minutes until they were.  I asked if I could place a folding chair on the site as a flag so that when they drove off no one else would be able to snake what I was stalking.  We  locked-down the site for the night and there was much celebration.

After a very relaxing a wonderfully sunny day at the beach we awoke the next morning to drizzle and thick fog so we packed up quickly and trickled down the coast for the rest of the day.  We stopped in Arcata which is a fantastically different little hippie town in Humboldt county and went to the natural foods market and bought a bunch of used books for Ashlin.  We love Arcata and could almost see ourselves living here at some point but it is so far away from anything else it seems almost a bit like an island.  We would end up driving about four hours south out of Arcata and still wind up almost three hours shy of San Francisco.  Where we stopped this night was near a town called Point Arena, a town we thought we liked from a previous trip.  It wasn’t the town we were thinking of but it was a nice little old fishing village of about 300 people.  We stayed at Manchester State beach and enjoyed another sunny day which people kept telling us we were lucky to be having.  Places on the northern California coast all seem to claim themselves as the “foggiest and most windy place on the coast” kind of like the way everywhere in New England claims the best clam chowder.

After another day of slow, curvy and breath-taking road we crossed over onto Point Reyes National Seashore hoping to get backcountry permits for another backpacking trip but doubting our chances on a Friday night.  We walked up to the permit desk and noted that every weekend was marked “full” straight through September.  We asked anyway and apparently they save a couple spots for walk-ins.  Excitedly we packed up our backpacks and headed off for Coast Camp.  A short 2 mile hike in from the car afforded us a pristine beach stretching for miles with only two other people in sight.  Again, this foggy, misty place was beaming with sunshine and we chilled out on the beach while Ash played in a tide-pool and buried herself in the sand.  Katie spent the night fighting off imaginary raccoons (she still swears they were there) and we had our first re-hydrated eggs of the trip.  Not too bad if you’re really hungry and add lots of cheese.  We hiked out the next morning and got back into the car where we narrowly avoided hitting like 187 bikers along this stretch of PCH.  By lunch we were crossing the Golden Gate Bridge and looking for Jared and Ryann’s place.

One of the best parts of the trip already was getting to see these guys for just a little while so getting to see them for even longer at their place in Pacific Heights (with a hot shower and kitchen) was even better.  We cooked, ate, went out to eat, played Uno, hung out while eating and cooked some more.  San Francisco has always been one of our favorite cities so having good friends there is something special.  Although Jared and Ryann have been in the city since we all left Long Beach this is only the second time we’ve been to their place.  Sure makes us want to move.

We are now driving around the city on our third day here hitting up Best Buy so we can past pictures soon.  We are heading east for the first time in a while as we look for the Bay bridge and the 80 as we make our way towards Yosemite.  We know it will be crowded but there are some places that are just plain worth putting up with herds and the waterfalls are supposed to be amazing this year.  The higher campgrounds are still closed so it looks like we might find some more snow drift camping.  Wish us luck!  We’ll intersect our path from a couple weeks ago somewhere in in the Sierras and then on to Montana.  Update at the next internet spot!

Peace. D-

And now we are up to date.

After Lassen we headed to Lava Beds National Monument where we got to hike down into some caves to see some very old pictographs.  That night we went to the ranger program at the campground about stars and we all got to see Saturn through a telescope.  The next morning we went and saw “Captain Jack’s Stronghold” and hiked all around where the Modoc Tribe hid out and fought for 5 months against General Canby and his army.  This was for all of us completing fascinating.  There was a little pamphlet that you could read at certain markers along the way that helped visualize what really went on, Ashlin was so into it!   Upon leaving we headed up to Crater Lake where Derek was very concerned we would not find a camping spot.  When we get there we discover that due to 10 foot snowdrifts only 30 sites were open and out of those only 10 were “zoned” for tents and out of those about 3 had enough room to put our tent because of all the snow.  Once we got our spot we went to the visitors center to see if any hikes were open and only one was, except , the ranger says, you can hike up to the watchtower but you have to blaze your own trail and it is all snow and all up hill.  Sounded like a fun challenge to us.  So, we pulled off the side of the road and as Ashlin adorably put it “geared up” and 50 minutes later we were gazing out at the most beautiful site I may have ever seen.  We only saw 4 other people while we were up there which is a treat because in the warmer months (as if July is not warm) there is no snow and hence the top becomes very crowded.  Now the hike down we laughed more than we have this whole trip.  Because of the snow it took us only 10 minutes to get down.  We skied with our boots and fell on our butts and it was SO much fun.  We returned to our campsite with every known mosquito to Oregon and quickly retired to our tent.  Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that after not showering for 7 days we were overjoyed to see that there was a shower and when I got in, cold water, not even kidding.  I went in for another cold one in the morning though, it just felt too good to be clean J.  So yesterday (the 4^th) we drove to the coast!  We got to our campsite at the beach, got out to pay, and yep it happened, locked the keys in the car.  Luckily AAA was here in 15 minutes and we were off to the beach to watch the fireworks.  Growing up watching fireworks on the beach in Maine this made me very nostalgic and happy.  Currently Derek is making our first “big” breakfast of the year, pancakes and bacon. Yummy!!!  We will post again soon as I know that between our two posts it probably will take you days to read.  <3 Peace

Out of no internet land

I got really excited last night because of paper towels.  The bathroom at this campground has the trifecta – running water, soap dispenser and paper towels.  Now, the water is cold.  Really cold.  Cold enough to turn oils from dinner into a buttery paste that adheres to plates and bowls like Crisco, but it didn’t have to be gathered from a stream, river or lake.  Anyway, this glue-like residue is usually wiped from the dishes with a fast-dry towel reserved for this purpose.  Problem is . . . said towel is pretty nasty by this point from the past several nights’ dinners.  After using the dishwashing sink at the bathrooms (also a five-star feature) I was left with these Crisco- paste covered dishes and a filthy towel prepared to do what was necessary.    I walked into the bathroom to wash my hands in the frigid (but soapy) water, shake them off and wipe them on my pants as per the norm, when I noticed the paper towel dispenser.  A paper towel dispenser?  In a national park?  Sweet potatoes!  I considered denying myself the treat for about half a second. Feverishly I ripped three or four from the device and quickly wiped down the dishes and flatware before disposing of the paper towels in the bathroom garbage can.  I returned to camp feeling slightly guilty but oh so smudge free.

All of this to say we have officially become completely comfortable with our dirtbag status.  Snot-rockets, thrice worn socks, baby-wipe “baths”, trash can pockets and pit toilets are a constant reality.  When three paper towels makes one giddy it can safely be said that the dirtbag groove is found.

It is July 1^st (not sure when this will be posted as we are nowhere near internet access right now) and we are currently in Lassen Volcanic NP in northern California.  The past few days have been spectacular despite having to deal with some unexpected snow.  Most of the trails we were hoping to hike in Great Basin were closed due to eight feet of the white stuff remaining on the ground.   Here on Lassen’s higher elevations thirty feet of snow remain, including 10,457 foot Lassen Peak (a dormant volcano) which we hoped to climb.  Not gonna happen.  We first entered California at Lake Tahoe where below 8,000 feet we managed to find some trails snow free.  So despite forecasts of heavy rain we ventured on a backpacking trip (Katie and Ash’s first ever!) along the Rubicon trail. 

Backpacking presents a new set of challenges, especially with a five-year old along.  Generally when backpacking, everyone is responsible for carrying their own sleeping gear, clothes and food while splitting up shared gear like the tent, stove and fuel.  Ashlin does not yet share this burden which means three peoples’ stuff in two peoples’ packs.  Only going for one night helped with the space shortage and the trail proved a great one for a first trip.  The Rubicon trail follows the shore of the bluish-green water of Lake Tahoe taking the hiker up, down and through the exposed granite rock that is characteristic of the Sierra-Nevada mountain range.  Views of the lake and the many inlets and bays are frequent and breathtaking and the water is so clear one can see straight to the bottom, even as the lake deepens away from shore.  At 7,000 feet, we were able to see the 9,000 foot peaks towering above where the clouds from the imminent storm were pouring over the ridge like a powdery waterfall.  It started to drizzle lightly before reaching camp but we were able to get the tent set up before the real rain came.  We boiled some water for a freeze dried dinner, ate fairly quickly and settled into the tent for a couple hours of Uno (Ashlin was the Tahoe Uno champ by the way – you have to really try to beat her now).  It rained hard through the night and into the morning with the nighttime low reaching the upper 30s.  Fortunately, it stopped right after we woke up and we were able to hang out by the lake while watching the RVs drive by 800 feet above our heads. Knowing they were all wishing they could be where we were, we felt quite content with our decision to make the trip.

We had one of those beautiful, bright and crisp sunny days that seem a reward for suffering a torrential and lasting downpour.  We hiked the three mile return trip to the car and began resorting all of our stuff into the proper travel places and drove north still following the Sierras.  We set our sights on a state park that, upon arrival we found closed due to toxic material in the water.  Turns out mercury was somehow used in gold mining and is just now reentering the water table.  Mmmmm . . . mercury.  So we ended up driving out of the way a good bit to find a campground that was neither detrimental to our health nor covered in snow.  Easier said than done.  We managed to find a killer home for the night along the Salmon River in a really secluded spot.  Because of the late and heavy snowmelt there was a newly formed wash creek that separated three sites from all the others.  We found a fallen log to transport ourselves and gear across the creek and landed ourselves a location without any other campers in sight.  Awesome spot and another cold night - prompting our first fire of the trip.

The next morning we stopped at a stable and Ashlin got her first horse ride of the trip!  Kate and I spotted the place as we were backtracking slightly from Poison State Park but withheld the info (Ash was “magic napping” when we passed) in case, as some stables do, they deny riders under 10.  It all worked out and she got a mini-lesson and a ride on the aptly named Mocha. 

Shortly after hitting the road again one of those weird life-moments happenstanced us.  We’ve been hoping to meet up with Jared and Ryann (friends from our California days) but they had long standing plans for the High Sierra Music Festival and said they probably couldn’t meet.  So sadly we were cruising through California with no expectation of getting to see them.  It was only about an hour we had been driving along this tiny 2-lane highway in Bumble Fork, CA when we enter this little town of Quincy – population 5,421.  Suddenly we see all these people (mostly damned hippies) with backpacks, coolers, blankets and kids heading in the same direction.  It took about 12 seconds for it to register that this was most likely the location of the Festival. Must call Jared.  I asked Kate to check my phone to see if we happened to get reception and just as she did we got three bars and a message from Jared.  We’re in Quincy if you happen to come this way.  Bullstuff!!!  No way would it work out his way.  Sure enough we called and they were about ¾ mile away from us heading to a park and a pool where we could meet.  Ashlin was thrilled, we were thrilled and we spent the next few hours hanging with the Thompsons, swimming and constantly reminding ourselves how dumbfounded we all were that this was actually happing.  Could not have planned it.  It was so great to see them so serendipitously that all three of us were in a fantastic mood for the rest of the drive.  Even when we got here to Lassen and they told us the main road was closed due to snow and that it would be an additional two hour drive to an alternate entrance.

Our time at Lassen is now ending as we are packing up early on our third day here to find a spot on 4^th of July weekend.  We got to hike to the top of and into the caldera of a cinder cone volcano yesterday which was crazy.  7 mile hike with 800 foot climb in half a mile – two times, once for the summit and once for the caldera.  Over really loose and sandy volcanic rock and rock dust which makes for a difficult up and many rocks in the boots. Ashlin is sad to go because she has made a friend these past few days named Heidi.  They have been playing horse, catching bugs, climbing fallen trees and playing in fire together almost constantly except when we have been sleeping or hiking.  But we must go and must go early if we hope to land a spot tonight.  Hope all is well with you all and we’ll update sometime soon!

Peace. D-

New Mexico and Utah

I am not sure where to even begin but since last post we spent a night on the San Juan River in New Mexico where we cooked our local brats over the fire and then refreshed ourselves in the morning with a good ole head dunking in the river (chilly!).  Ashlin collected rocks into a sack so she could throw them in the river but between the time she collected them and our walk down to the river she had grown attached to the said bag of rocks and decided to keep them.  She also decided she was going to climb the tree at our campsite but in order to do that she insisted on having gloves on and a rope tied around her, very serious climber she is!  We then drove 4 hours to Moab, Utah in order to make our 8am pick up time the next morning for our canoe trip.  We found a great spot on the Colorado River that offered some shade and then started what ended up being a 3 day UNO competition.  Ashlin and Derek hiked up some rocks and Ashlin made a friend she named Henry (just a little lizard).  We used the leftover brat and cooked up some peppers and onions to make some yummy burritos.  I am trying to add in notes about food as people always ask what we eat.  I am going to let Derek take over and talk about our 3 day canoe trip down the Colorado. Peace :) Miss ya'll!!

Howdy!
Nice to be catching some shade and moving into the cool mountains after these past five days in the desert.  Our trip down the Colorado was spectacular but it was a test.  We had three straight days with 100 degree highs which is not so unusual for Georgia, but we don't make a habit of spending the days exerting ourselves in the sunny spots outside.  Anyway, we paddled 17 gorgeous miles the first day and set up camp in one of the hundreds of side canyons along the river.  It was rare feeling to get to hike around in a spot accessable only from the river.  The 2 mile canyon was guarded by 800 foot sheer cliffs on every side so the place seemed like our own little world (or oven).  The second day I got up at sunrise to take some pictures and we set off early because the sun hit our camp at around 7:15.  We stopped along the river and hiked to some ruins and paintings left by the "Native-Indians" as Ash calls them.  Native Americans are her new fascination now.  We had to push to paddle 24 miles as campsites were few and far between due to the high water covering the sandbars.  Oh, I forgot to mention the wind.  Dear god, the wind.  It was so strong that the current was flowing 6 miles and hour but we were moving 2.  Our canoe kept getting blown around by 30 MPH gusts so keeping the boat just pointed downstream took everything we had.  After 8 hours on the water we thought we found a shady-spot and we pulled to shore where we discovered the naked bathers that had already claimed the camp.  Everyone was surprised to say the least, especially since they were the first canoers we had seen.  We kept paddling and finally came to rest about 8 miles shy of the confluence.  After another night of camping on the river without another sole in sight we woke early again and paddled hard for the confluence.  We got picked up just shy of the Green River and taken back to Moab where we devoured some nachos and sat in the AC for a while.

This year we've decided how far we can go without hitting a hotel.  The KOA thing is not so good for camping, but great for the shower/laundry/Internet/take-out food thing.  Anyway, that's the route we're going to try this year and we're owning it.  KOAs instead of city-camping.  Represent!

So we are now getting in the car and driving from Green River, Utah to Great Basin NP in Nevada where is should be about fifty degrees cooler at night and forty cooler in the day.  We actually will be hiking through snow tomorrow . . . we'll keep you posted!

Peace. D-

Out of Texas and Into the Rockies

We have found that it takes a few days to hit our stride on these trips.  At times it is excruciating.   Spending weeks-on-end seldom further than arm’s length from one’s entire nuclear family, even if the entirety is merely three, takes an adjustment period. The assimilation is both catalyzed and hindered by these first few days which usually involves five to six hundred interstate miles, ten to twelve hours in the car and very little physical activity. We are all so eager to get out west, get out of the car and get to hiking and such that tedium runs a close race with reward.

But the promise of somewhere new beckons.  The daily grind and routine worries are slowly shed in favor of our new concerns - a level spot for the tent, a nearby water source, proper food storage from critters and the number of remaining daylight hours.  These things become the everyday.  Ashlin is the best litmus test for the transition from the norm.  People often ask how she spends her time when we are around camp. This morning finds her filling an empty Gatorade bottle with small rocks then pouring water on top of the pebbles before she dumps the bottle’s contents and starts over. She’s been doing this for about an hour as we pack up camp.  This is a good sign that we are turning a corner in our transition.

This morning as we move from Texas into the New Mexico Rockies the excitement begins to build.   We are getting to the good stuff and it is evident in our family’s mood.  Today marks the first day of something new and somewhere we haven’t been. The red rocks and mountains of the southwest desert will be our playground for the next few days. After a stop for supplies in Albuquerque (where we are now) we will be out of cell range and internet access points so we’ll update after the river trip in the Canyonlands!  Have a great week!

Peace. D-

Tennessee to Arkansas

On our official Day 1 we drove from Gatlinburg, TN to Little Rock, AR.  600 miles and 9 hours later we  ended up at a…KOA, that’s right folks we drove all that way to stay at a campground with WI-FI, a pool, and a shower.  Aside from not really having any other options I must say it was a good decision for the fact that Ashlin was ecstatic about being able to go swimming at 9pm.  We all survived day one except for our car stereo, or maybe it is our speakers.  The men at Best Buy could not decide which it was this morning but did say, “if we fix one and that isn’t the problem then we can just fix the other” I bet they would.  So, in order to not spend upwards of $700 we decided to buy an iPod docking station and that is what we are currently rocking out to.  Really not a bad option and Ashlin can use the remote from the back seat to make sure she can hear her Bryan Adams Spirit soundtrack.  Ahhh, life is good though, already only camping one night has made us all feel relaxed, energized and happy to be around.  No longer are we worrying about the day to day routine of life but rather getting excited about falling asleep without the fly looking at the stars.  I type this as we drive through Oklahoma in hopes I can post it later tonight when we drive through Amarillo.  Ashlin and Derek are doing wonderful, Ashlin is currently taking what she calls a “magic nap” and Derek is trying to stop himself from talking to me while I type J.  Talk soon.  Peace. 

Katie

Leaving Gatlinburg

So today marks the beginning of our journey west.  We left Atlanta Friday after much last minute freakage and drove 4 hours to Gatlinburg TN where we joined many other Ivesters for the family reunion.  For those who have never been to G-Burg, it's sort-of like Panama City Beach but in the mountains.  If you've never been to PCB or imagine airbrush T-Shirts, arcades, koozies with "clever" sayings, funnel cakes (fried dough for the Bostonians), spandex, pancakes, spring-breaks and family reunions.  Even though we technically hit National Park #1 with the Smokies we've been city-camping and eating out so the prospect of heading out of town towards the Colorado river sounds really, really good right now.  It's been fun seeing family but it's time to go . . .

We'll be cruising the drive-through states for a couple of days as we look towards Moab and the Canyonlands.  We hit the river Wed and paddle until Saturday so hopefully we'll have the first pictures and another update then.  Hope all is well with Ya'll!!!

Happy Father's Day!!!

The Car Situation - One Week Left

385,357 – That number is the sum of our two 1998 Toyota Camery odometer readings.  Despite fear of jinxing us to a transmission failure 23 miles down some unpaved forestry service road I will go ahead and declare the following – these cars just will not die. 

Dubbed with the straightforward monikers of “Blue Car” and “Brown Car” for their most distinguishing feature, the brown car is AKA “Bruiser” due to some character marks earned while in our service.  Brown Car was the victim of a hit-and-run while parked on Peachtree one night resulting in a substantial dent to the driver’s side rear panel.   Days later my freshly licensed brother backed a mini-van into Brown Car.  Then Katie backed Brown Car into a parked flatbed-truck while pulling out of our driveway just days before I scraped the front panel on a length of brick wall pulling into a different driveway.

 Not done yet.

I honestly forget  where this fell sequentially, but somebody ran a red-light  downtown and slammed into the side opposite from  which my brother had just run into or was shortly about to smash. We did get money from our insurance company to fix the fairly significant cosmetic damage to Brown Car and we promptly spent the money on getting Blue Car to pass emissions. So while Brown Car looks and drips fluids like a boxer after seventeen rounds, Blue car is a fairly spry 13 years old.  With 64,429 less miles under the hood and the noticeably absent smell of burning that is Brown Car’s constant companion, we will indeed be taking Blue Car for the third straight year.   All I can say is we haven’t had a car payment in quite some time and Toyota should feature us in one of their ads.

As usual, the exact route the Blue Car will follow is sketchy at best. We know we have canoeing permits to put-in on the Colorado River outside Moab, Utah on June 23^rd.  From there we will paddle 54 miles downriver into Canyonlands NP where it should be gorgeous but hot enough to fry an egg on a rock Grizzwald-style.  We’ll get picked up three days later near the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers and taken back to Moab.  After that we’ll hit Great Basin NP in Nevada where a hike to the state’s only glacier is apparently just a 6-mile round trip.  One road we know we’ll be taking is Hwy 50, “America’s Loneliest Road”, out of Great Basin and across Nevada into Lake Tahoe (there may or may not be some degenerate gambling in Reno first).  Heading north somehow through northern California we will spend some time in the Sierras, see Lassen Volcanic NP, hopefully see Jared and Ryann, enter the southern Cascades and find our way to Crater Lake NP in Oregon.  After a possible backpacking trip there, we’ll head west to the ocean and take some time going up the whole Oregon Coast.  Lots of good hiking and sea kayaking possibilities abound.

From this point on we have no idea really.  Washington is a big mystery right now.  There is so much we want to do it looks like we might just have to wait and see what we feel like when we get there.  Beach backpacking in Olympic NP is an option as is a return trip to the Hoh River valley where we were two years ago.  Dare we repeat?  The San Juan Islands are inviting but seem a logistical nightmare for last minute travel.  The North Cascades NP might be up for a return visit because the wilderness area option just south of the park is really isolated and filled with Grizzlies.  Mt. Rainier again?  Mt. St. Helens?  Anywho . . . after we do what we do in Washington we’ll be heading across Idaho into Montana where we will be doing something somewhere in the state with Matt, Shell, Gramm, Molly, Eric and Roan.  We’ll come through Wyoming again on the trip back east where Ash may get her last horse ride of the summer.  We’ll keep you all posted . . . 7 MORE DAYS!!!!!!!!!!!!      

P.S.  Katie took off for Bonaroo with Carley Wednesday.